2015 Seven Springs Pinot Noir Magnum

There is something about a wine on the cusp of its next move. At what rate things have evolved in any bottle is unknowable, and the liminal space between fresh, intact fruit — in this case Morello cherry and raspberry — and the inside of a wood cabin with tea on the stove and desiccated flowers on the table is precisely what propels this wine towards a fascinating place to drink. Filling the mouth, the fruit shows ebullience with structure and savory to match. As Seven Springs does, even more with time in the glass, a mineral, zesty edge frames it all so expertly that the wine is as refreshing as it is complex. (November 2024)